This page is about the BMW motorcycle models R26, R27, R50, R60, R69, R50/2,
R60/2, R50S, R69S, R50/US, R60/US, R69US, R50/5, R60/5, R75/5, R50/6, R60/6,
R75/6, R90/6, R90S, R60/7, R75/7, R80/7, R100/7, R100S, R100RS. This info
may apply to later models too.
The rear axle on all swing arm models (after 55) can be inserted in such a
way as to bind up. This also applies to the front axle on the models with BMW
Earles forks. This binding can result in the axle getting put into a curve. The
curve will tighten the bearings and can make a "groan" or "click" type of noise. The noise is usually noticed when the bike is not running and being pushed
around by hand, in a quiet place. If the axle is left in this condition
for a long time it will cause the swing arm to become permanently bent.
The most common reason for the axle to get into this situation is that the
last installer wasn't paying attention. Often the axle won't go in all of the
way. It may be noticed and maybe not, but the installer puts the washer and nut
on the axle and tightens it up. The left side swing arm is "caught" on the axle
and gets pulled over when the nut is tightened up. I have never seen this
damage the bearings.
![](axle1.JPG)
Correct. A /5 fully seated axle
![](axle2.JPG)
Incorrect. The same axle in a "bind"
To fix it, loosen the axle pinch bolt (the one in the photo) and back off the
axle nut a turn. Put the tommy bar, or any screwdriver, into the axle hole and
rotate it. You will see the swing arm jump back into place. If it stays in the
wrong spot, then it means that the swing arm is bent. To fix that you can pull
the swing arm out about one mm too far and tighten the pinch bolt. In time the
swing arm will take a new set to about the right place. One always
tightens the pinch bolt last.
It will look about the same on a /6 or /7. On these models it is important to
have the axle hole horizontal and not vertical. I have heard the complaint that
some owners don't want the hole flat because it will collect water and rust. The
reason for the hole as shown is so that one can use the tommy bar to extract the
axle. With the axle nut removed and the pinch bolt loose, insert the tommy bar
and rotate it. The swing arm is cut at a bevel and that acts as a ramp to give
you a mechanical advantage in starting the axle removal. One can install the
axle with the tommy bar and crank it downwards until it just touches the swing
arm. The hole won't be quite flat and the water will drain out.
![axle4.jpg (40979 bytes)](axle4_small.jpg)
Correct. This is the front axle on a /2.
![axle5.jpg (39728 bytes)](axle5_small.jpg)
Correct. This is the rear axle on a /2.
Warning
Do not over tighten the axle nut. On /5 and later the factory messed up the
bearing preload. The result is catastrophic, the bearing will spin in the hub. Then you may need a new hub. Go to my page on
wheel bearings to read about this
issue. On the /2, the axle nut can (usually) be tightened up to the specified 25
ft. lbs. of torque safely. On /5, and later, that may not be
the case, test it.
|