This page is about the BMW motorcycle models R25/3, R26, R27, R51/2, R51/3, R67/
R67/2, R67/3, R68, R50, R60, R69, R50/2, R60/2, R50S, R69S, R50/US, R60/US,
R69US, R50/5, R60/5, R75/5, R50/6, R60/6, R75/6, R90/6, R90S, R60/7, R75/7,
R80/7, R100/7, R100S, R100RS and R100RT.
You are reading this because you already have a key problem. Too bad, because
if you had read this a while back, you wouldn't be here now. This is in
two parts: the nature of people and how we dealt with it.
A BMW motorcycle came with two (three after 73) factory keys. They are steel
and made by Neiman. It is hard to get real blanks on this side of the pond. Even
if you had them, most locksmiths won't cut steel keys. Taylor makes, or used to
make, blanks that work for your BMW. They are soft and locksmiths will cut
them. The soft American key blanks bend easily in the hands of someone that
doesn't know how to use the lock. The steel keys are stronger and I prefer them. If you want a duplicate key blank for your BMW motorcycle try to get a Neiman
blank and then find a locksmith that will cut it, or do it yourself with a file. It only takes a couple of minutes. It is possible that someone could see your
key code on your original key and easily make a key from that number.
Since BMWs are rarely stolen, that is a very small risk.
A locksmith can make a key for your motorcycle if you take in the part with
the lock, maybe the whole bike.
The nature of people, or "How can they be so stupid"?
We were often receiving calls from owners asking if we could use our secret
"code" and get a key made for their BMW. We had to disappoint them, as BMW
didn't have one. It was very expensive to replace all of the locks with a
matching set. We had to do something about this demand.
On delivery of the new bike, we emphasized the importance of the keys. We not
only showed how to lock the fork, but made them do it a few times in front of
us. We held the forks so that they couldn't snap it off, by turning the fork,
right in front of us. Don't ask me how I learned that one.
Obviously we couldn't trust owners with keys. As soon as a new bike came in
from BMW, we made two copies of the originals. We kept one original and gave the
owner the other original and the two copies. Don't ever use an original on the
bike. It is only for making copies and belongs with your birth certificate and
other valuables. Use the copies for everything. When you lose both of the copies
and then start using the original, because you don't have time to copy it, and
then lose it too, we can make you a duplicate key for your BMW motorcycle from
our shop original. You are asking "How can anyone be so stupid as to get into
that situation?" I don't know the answer, but it happened often. At least now we
had a way out, actually two. We had written the key code in the front of the
owners manual , but the owner often had lost that too. We kept it recorded in
our pre delivery work order. We were also able to make a copy, by hand, using
the code. Or, we could make a copy from the single original. It was faster to
hand file a copy than to drive to the locksmith and just as accurate. We
used a triangle file.
After we had gone through all of this routine about keys, can you imagine
calling us to get a copy? You should have seen them "crawl" into the shop. We
had so much fun with our abuse and did they pay, not only in dollars. This
program worked, as we were able to reduce the "lost key" thing by about 1/2.
Pain is a good teacher.
If you are lucky enough to have an original steel key, by Neiman, write the
number down in two places. One of them should be with the bike. The inside page
of the owners manual has a place for it. Who knows, maybe you will be on the
road and need a key cut. Make at least two copies and never again use the
original in the bike. Keep it in a safe place, that means where you will
never again find it, but your spouse can.
If you have a key, but it doesn't have the key code numbers, go to the bottom
of this page to learn how to "decode" a key.
This information is from locksmith John Blankenship, thanks.
I checked out those blanks and came up with the following. Refer to the
attached photo of American blanks.
Ilco VO6 (on left): It is designed for Volvo automobiles using 6 tumblers and
BMW motorcycles use 5 tumblers. That is why it is longer from the tip to the
shoulder. It fits the BMW keyway and will probably work but you risk the
tip of the key contacting the end of the keyway and stopping the key before the
shoulder contacts the shoulder stop in the lock.
Taylor B69K (2nd from left): It will work, but has been discontinued since
Ilco bought Taylor.
Ilco SR61N (2nd from right): It is the Ilco version of the B69K and is still
Ilco Y61 (on right): This is made for 1994 and earlier BMW motorcycles.
The main difference between the SR61N and the Y61 is the shoulder stop. The
shoulder stop on the SR61N sticks out a lot farther that the shoulder stop on
theY61. The best I have been able to determine is that the Y61 is for 1986 to
1994 models and the pre-86 models may use just one or maybe both of them.
I have not had enough experience on older BMW motorcycles to know for sure.
Thanks for the info and I hope this helps. FYI, I cut BMW motorcycle keys by
code. In fact, I cut almost all motorcycle keys by code. More info is at my web
More about BMW motorcycle key blanks
All /2 (55-69) used the same key blank by Neiman. The fork lock and small
tank tool box used one key for both. They were keyed alike. BMW always had the
locks keyed alike. If your bike needs two keys, then one or both have been
changed for sure. You can still get a lockset. The original BMW part number
is 32 32 9 016 105, but maybe only 51 25 1 233 554 is now available.
The /2 BMW small tank tool box.
The /2 BMW 4.5 gal. (small) tank had a tool box on the left side of the tank. This scheme was first introduced on the R25/3. The lock is attached by three
soft rivets. Gently remove the rubber knee pad to expose the 3 lock rivets
on the outside.
This shows the lock and three rivets from the inside. You can see the hammer
marks made when peening the rivet into place. The factory had a real riveter and
the surface is an even crown. These hammer marks show that the lock has been
replaced. It could have been the original one that has been removed and
reinstalled. Usually it means that someone didn't have a key and replaced the
old lock with one that had a key. The rivets can be drilled out easily to remove
a tool box lid that has no key. Be careful with the drilling. You
certainly don't want to damage any items stored in the tool box when the drill
bit goes through.
With the tool box now open, you need to remove the lid from the tank. It is
attached by the two hinges. The two hinge pins are a soft material. One end has
a head like a nail. The other end has a split cut into it. That is so that once
it is installed, the split can be spread apart to help it stay in place and not
"work its way out" of the hinge. Make sure that you have the
rubber gasket to keep water out.
This shows the front of a tool box lid with the lock removed.
Photo by Mark, thanks.
This shows the inside of the tool box with the lock removed. The gasket is
missing from the channel around the outside edge of the lid. Photo by
This is a lock that has been drilled out for removal. Don't drill out the
center area as shown as that is the tumblers. Only drill out the rivets.
Photo by Mark, thanks.
BMW /2 small tank tool box lid hinge pin.
The pin is about 1 3/8" long with a split of about 3/16". Each pin can be
slid out by using a small screwdriver under the head of the pin. There is
little room for a punch.
Since the parts are all black, it is hard to photograph. The large white spot
at the left side is one of the rivets. Just above and to the right is a tiny
brown spot. That is the head of the left hinge pin. It is "out" of the hinge
about 3/16" or so. The right one has a small space and can barely be seen.
One must take advantage of this space.
This one shows what one can do to remove the pin. Use a small screwdriver to
stick into the small space and tap sideways on the screwdriver with a hammer as
shown. You may have to use your imagination for this one. A "movie" would be
better. The pins usually come out easily. It may help to oil the pin
BMW Locking gas caps
The main thing is to understand that locking gas caps caused 10 times more
trouble than vandalism ever did. The locks jammed and owners would lose keys. I
only saw a couple of possible cases of vandalism in all of my years of BMW. We
averaged about two owners a month coming in with locking gas cap trouble. Usually it was "I am on reserve and left my key at home" so we would use some
fuel line to "backfill" the tank. Next was lost keys and lastly jammed up locks. I should have offered locking gas caps to everyone for free.
The resulting labor would have paid me back many times over.
For the /2, several aftermarket caps were available. None used the same key
blank as the lockset. One very common one was larger and chrome. When it was
locked the cap would turn freely. The key was a very simple one that didn't use
tumblers. It was very cheap and often failed. The easy way to remove it is to
just drill a hole down into the cap and then into the next surface below. With
the drill in place, or a nail, rotate and remove. The nail simply locks
the freely spinning cap with the part that goes into the tank.
The key for a locking gas cap on a /2, or /5, never matched the other keys. That is because the locking gas cap was only available as an accessory. The /5
used the same key blank as the /2. The /6 used three different styles of
key, but all were keyed alike.
The /5 BMW locking gas cap
The cap used the same key blank as the lockset. It always seemed to us that
there was some way to get the cap lock to be "keyed alike" and use the same keys
as the other locks. We were told by Butler and Smith that there was "no way" to
do it. Recent email encouraging Ben McCafferty to explore getting them
matched resulted in this info.
Took the tank to a locksmith here in Boulder, and he was able to re-pin the
lock in about five minutes. Instead of removing the lock cylinder, he removed
the pivot pin for the lock/button, and the whole squarish piece came out and he
accessed the tumblers that way. The Neiman key now fits all three locks on the
bike. The cap I have is chrome, flips to the rear, and the keyhole is under a
small chrome flap. When locking it, you must push the lock/button for the cap
slightly forward, and the key turns about 60 degrees to the locked position. If
anyone would like pictures of my cap (to compare and see whether you have the
same one), I'd be happy to send one along.
The /6 BMW keys
In 1974, BMW came out with the /6 model. The standard flat key was lengthened
and two additional styles were introduced. One of the large complaints was the
key getting broken off in the fork lock. BMW added a folding key to allow the
owner to leave it in the lock and turn the forks without breaking it off. It
didn't help anything at all. The owner that was too distracted (read
stupid) to learn to not break it off, was also unable to learn to use the key
made just for that purpose. The second addition is the "knob" key, shown below.
This is the /6 folding key in the "useful" position.
This is the /6 key in the folded position where the fork won't
The /7 BMW keys
The gray plastic key was changed for the /7 models. The gray plastic
key didn't look very good
in the ignition position. I am not sure exactly when
the change was made. This folding part is black plastic and of higher quality.
When folded, the key is in the middle of the plastic, not off to one side as
with the gray /6 key.
This is the /7 folding key in the flat position.
The front side with the logo
This is the key in the folded position. In this position the fork won't hit
it. This one also works and looks good in the ignition switch.
This is the other "new key" for the /6 and /7. We called it the knob key. Locksmiths were unable to copy it easily, so we just filed them.
This key was intended to go into the ignition switch on the side of the
This is the ignition lock. Before 1974, all headlights were mounted with a
bolt through the headlight ear on each side. The left bolt was replaced with an
electrical switch for the ignition and lights. In 1974 only, the lock had
5 positions and afterwards, only 3 positions.
This is the BMW knob key in the switch. It is fairly well
The key codes, here is what those numbers mean.
The deepest cut is denoted by a 1. The last item is a O (letter) which is the
series. Starting at the top and going down, it makes sense. The 1 is a deep cut,
almost to the slot. The next cut, a 2, isn't as deep. Next is only a very tiny
bite out of the metal and that is a 4. Then we have another cut equal to the
second cut, another 2. Next is no cut, which is a 5. Thanks to John
Blankenship for his corrections.
Follow the same rules as before and carefully examine the
You have studied long enough, this is a test. If you don't pass, the BMW god
will revoke your right of ownership of any and all BMW's, forever. Look at it
long and hard. This key isn't cut very well. This is an open book test. If you
pass this test, then you are able to "decode" your key and have the number. The
answer can be found at the bottom of the page on
To learn all about how to re-key the seat lock, go to
For better pics on the key codes, go to
For another perspective, go to
For more information on the black plastic keys and the headlight switch used
on the /2 and /5, click here.